How to Repair Scratches in Your Car’s Paint

Getting scratches on your car’s paint job can be devastating! Thankfully for you, they can be finessed off the leading surface area if they are not too deep.

Many scratches and scuffs, along with “orange peel” and some paint flaws, can be “finessed” out, depending upon intensity. It would help if you trod lightly, the majority of clear coats can be 3-5 mils thick, and a typical “finesse job” can remove.5-1.0 mils of clear coat.


You will desire to wash the car. This will allow you to assess the damage and avoid making the circumstance even worse as you try to repair it. Wet sanding and rubbing an unclean car can make the scratch even worse! Once the car is tidy, evaluate the location. If it is just a mere scuff and even paint transfer from the things that struck it, you can generally avoid straight to buffing. If it is a little deeper, you will need to wet-stand first. If it is too deep (paint layer, guide, or bare metal exposed), the panel needs to be repainted.


If you decide to damp sand, you need to get a foam sanding block and wet-sanding paper. You will want 2000 grit and 3000 grit “wet-or-dry” paper, discovered at most parts stores and automotive body supply stores. The foam pad is a must because it conforms to the area you are dealing with, it takes in water (you must keep the work area wet), and they are typically inexpensive. You only want to wet-sand till the problem is gone. Excessive sanding yields no additional advantage and makes the clear coat, too. The appearance after sanding will be a dull, milky color, but it ought to be smooth and even. I normally begin with 2000 grits to do most of the work, then follow up with 3000 grits to make it smooth. Constantly keep the workspace WET, and add a few drops of dish soap to your water (if you use a spray bottle) for additional lubrication.


To polish, you will need an electric polisher with variable speed. I generally set the speed between 1500 RPM and 2500 RPM, depending upon what I’m dealing with and what kind of pad I use. I utilize only foam pads unless I have a lot of product to remove, and after that I will use wool. You will likewise need a compound. Various compound grades depend on how much product you need to get rid of. The heavier the “cut,” the more considerable the grit in the compound. If polishing after 3000 grits, you do not require a “heavy cut” compound. Keep in mind that every action of the process removes a small amount of clear coat, so you always want to go as little as possible.

Use some compounds to the workspace and start polishing with the buffer. One thing to ALWAYS remember with the buffer NEVER stops moving. Polishing develops heat, and it can blister when the paint gets too hot. Also, stay away from raised edges. Raised edges can burn through the paint quickly, to guide or bare metal. As you move the polisher back and forth, the compound will appear wet and dry and eventually vanish. You wish to operate in small areas, duplicating that cycle (wet, dry, gone). Keep repeating up until the dullness of the wet sanding is gone.

Final Glaze

Car polishing Singapore can leave the paint shiny, however another action is still to unlock the possible shine. To do this, you need a softer pad on the polisher (I discover the softest foam they provide) and a bottle of special compound typically called “finishing glaze” (likewise called “swirl mark remover). It is a compound developed to bring back a really high shine and remove swirl marks from the previous action. Then, it is applied much like a routine compound.

Once the finishing glaze is applied, an excellent coat of wax is advised to assist protect the paint. If the car has been recently painted, avoid the wax, as it can prevent the out-gassing of paint solvents weeks after a paint task. Rubbing compounds and finishing glazes are silicone totally free and won’t “seal” the paint, so they are safe for “fresh” paint tasks.

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